British fine jeweler Andrew Geoghegan has recently embraced 14-carat gold, calling it a 'bloody good metal.' After focusing on 18-carat gold and platinum for 25 years, Geoghegan's Emergence collection, launching on April 7, will offer 14-carat gold options for the first time. He believes the higher proportion of other metals in 14-carat gold gives it superior hardness and unique color hues, making it an excellent choice for jewelry.

The use of 14-carat gold is on the rise among British jewelers, a trend already popular in the United States. Fine jewelry brand Annoushka plans to launch its first full 14-carat gold collection in May, featuring chunky chain designs. Founder Annoushka Ducas cites the high gold price as a reason for the shift, as 14-carat gold offers a more commercial opportunity and appeals to a younger audience.

Minka Jewels introduced 14-carat rings and earrings with less expensive stones to its 18-carat gold Athena collection in November, aiming for a more accessible price point. The London-based brand is also working on a fully 14-carat gold collection set to launch in May.

In the UK, hallmarking laws require all gold jewelry to be marked. The number of 14-carat gold items marked by the country's four assay offices increased by 40.9% year on year to 276,915 in 2022, outpacing the overall 3.9% increase in all gold marked. The growth in 14-carat gold is attributed to an increase in global brands selling online into the UK.

The shift from nine-carat to 14-carat gold is also driven by growth in the US market. British brand By Pariah plans to switch to 14-carat gold and phase out its nine-carat offering by June. London-based jeweler Ruth Tomlinson has been working with 14-carat yellow gold for about ten years, and it now accounts for about 70% of sales.

As UK consumers become more familiar with 14-carat gold, demand is increasing. British brand Lylie saw a 71.4% year-on-year increase in orders for 14-carat yellow gold pieces in 2022, compared to a 3.6% rise for 18-carat gold and a 3.3% drop for nine-carat gold. Lylie founder Eliza Walter believes the popularity of 14-carat gold is growing in the UK, having previously been viewed as an American trend.